Dirleton Castle

Overview and Early History

Dirleton Castle stands on a rocky outcrop in East Lothian, between Edinburgh and North Berwick. A first timber‐and‐earth stronghold may have existed here during the 12th century, but the stone castle seen today was begun around 1240 by John de Vaux, a nobleman of Anglo‑Norman descent who served as steward to Queen Marie de Coucy. The massive round keep, modelled on the great towers of northern France, dominates the southern end of the site and provided living quarters, storage and defence for the de Vaux family. In 1298 the castle was captured by English forces during the Wars of Independence and remained a strategic prize for both sides until after the Battle of Bannockburn. The Scots retook and slighted the fortress in 1314 to prevent its reuse by the English, leaving the great tower partially ruined.

Haliburton Rebuilding

Around 1356 the barony passed to John Haliburton through marriage. He rebuilt Dirleton as a more comfortable residence while preserving its defensive strength. Along the eastern side of the courtyard he constructed a gatehouse with round towers, a grand hall and residential chambers. Vaulted storage cellars beneath the hall held supplies, while a chapel and a grim pit prison reflected the estate’s mixture of piety and power. The Haliburtons held high office—Sir Walter Haliburton became Treasurer of Scotland in 1439—and the castle remained their seat for nearly 150 years. They enlarged the curtain walls and refined the interiors, adding fireplaces, carved corbels and traceried windows.

Ruthven Enhancements and Decline

The Haliburton male line ended in 1505 and Dirleton passed through marriage to the Ruthven family around 1510. Patrick Ruthven and his son William transformed the west side of the courtyard by erecting a Renaissance‑style lodging with tall windows, ornamental corbelling and comfortable apartments. They also created pleasure gardens, a bowling green and an elegant circular dovecot nearby, reflecting a move from fortress to stately home. The Ruthvens were deeply embroiled in 16th‑century politics: members of the family murdered Mary Queen of Scots’ secretary David Riccio in 1566 and kidnapped King James VI in the “Raid of Ruthven” in 1582. The king confiscated their estates after repeated plots, and Dirleton changed hands several times thereafter.

Siege, Romantic Ruin and Gardens

During the Third English Civil War, Oliver Cromwell’s artillery laid siege to Dirleton after the Battle of Dunbar in September 1650. The bombardment forced the garrison to surrender; Cromwell’s engineers then slighted the castle to prevent further military use. In 1663 the property was bought by John Nisbet of Dirleton, who left the ruined castle as a picturesque eye‑catcher within a designed landscape while building Archerfield House nearby. Over the 18th and 19th centuries the grounds were laid out as formal gardens and an arboretum, incorporating a long herbaceous border and, in the 1920s, a rare ginkgo tree. The castle itself became a romantic ruin attracting artists and antiquarians.

Description

Dirleton Castle consists of three principal ranges. To the south stands the de Vaux tower: a massive three‑storey circular keep with battered base and thick sandstone walls, now partly roofless but still impressive. The Haliburton buildings occupy the east range, including a twin‑towered gatehouse, vaulted kitchen and cellars, and the great hall above; a chapel and pit prison lie within this block. The Ruthven lodging forms the west range, a five‑storey residence with large glazed windows, fireplaces and latrines, showing a shift toward comfort and display. The curtain wall encloses a roughly triangular courtyard and is fronted by a dry ditch and rock‑cut moat. Outside the walls are the 16th‑century dovecot and walled pleasure gardens.

Current Status

Today Dirleton Castle is in the care of Historic Environment Scotland. Visitors can explore the ruins, including the de Vaux tower, Haliburton vaults, Ruthven lodging and dovecot, as well as the celebrated Victorian and Edwardian gardens. Because of ongoing conservation work, some areas such as the Guard House, south entrance and parts of the de Vaux range may be closed. Opening hours in 2025 are 9:30 am to 5 pm daily from April to September (last entry 4:30 pm) and 10 am to 4 pm daily except Thursdays and Fridays from October to March (last entry 3:30 pm). There is usually a lunch closure from 12:30 pm to 1:30 pm. Dirleton Castle remains an evocative reminder of Scotland’s turbulent medieval past and a tranquil setting for leisurely garden walks.